The 12 Worst Types Audi G28 People You Follow On Twitter
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작성자 Brayden 작성일24-12-03 13:42 조회7회 댓글0건관련링크
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How to Replace an audi car key case key copy (just click the following internet site) G28 Engine Speed Sensor
Charles the Humble Technician teaches how to replace the G28 Engine Speed Sensor. The sensor is located near the edges of the transmission just above the flywheel ring gear. It transmits a signal to the ECU via an uncolored wire (T55/49), then to the tachometer in the instrument cluster.
1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is located at the edges of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control fuel, timig and boost. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to connect with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and possibly indicating the chain stretching or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. However, the code won't be displayed on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It is a little tricky to test as there are several pins on the connector, and they all have different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms if the sensor is operating at its maximum. If you are having problems with this sensor, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating at full speed from the highway paytoll, I experienced an abrupt drop in power as if the engine was running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing at all. This morning i pull out the spark plugs, 3 were drenched with gazoline the fourth one was dry. When i crank the engine, there are no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on top of each injector hole, the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th one stays shut. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 i get zero ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID with no success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it works fine when the G28 connected. However, the intermittent misfire problem still occurs at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value that is -49c even after unplugging it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do, as i think i've pretty much eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is identical to the G4 sender and works on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find an extra in a wrecking shop or parts store. It is simple to test them by putting your DMM in resistance mode and take measurements between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black connector's side). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU of our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines needs to be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft to make decisions regarding timing of the fuel injector, etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you encounter a problem with either of these, the diagnostic scanner will show codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
A failing G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate speed counter for your gearbox, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, or a misfire while in the gear. If you have any of these issues it is likely your sensor is deteriorating and needs replacing. The good thing is that they are very cheap and easy to find particularly in the case of a Bosch model, which is what we have. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It's a crucial component of the transmission of your audi key programming since it sends information to the ECU regarding how fast or slowly the engine is spinning. When this sensor fails, it will disrupt the performance of the transmission as well as the other car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is situated on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear and sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49, via an uncolored wire. The ECU then uses and processes the signal to control the flow of fuel, timig and boost as well as sends it on to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between the ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. It should show approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is a common component across the audi connect key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones might be availble in wrecking yards.

1. Engine Speed Sensor
The grey wire is located at the edges of the transmission, just above the flywheel ring. The sensor sends signals through the grey wire to pin T55/49. The ECU then uses this information to control fuel, timig and boost. It also sends an alert to the G5 Tachometer in instrument cluster.
The sensor is used to connect with the G40 Camshaft position Sensor. The ecu must know when the crankshaft is TDC and where the camshaft is so it can trigger spark and injectors in the right way.
If this sensor fails the ECU will throw the P00160 error, which means the Crank Shaft and Intake Camshaft are not in sync and possibly indicating the chain stretching or a jump link on the upper chain of timing. However, the code won't be displayed on its own without additional information from other sensors (G4 and G40).
It is a little tricky to test as there are several pins on the connector, and they all have different functions. The most effective method to test it is by measuring the resistance between the ECU and the sensor. It should read around 1000 ohms if the sensor is operating at its maximum. If you are having problems with this sensor, look for evidence of oil or coolant in the connector bay.
2. Injectors
Yesterday, while accelerating at full speed from the highway paytoll, I experienced an abrupt drop in power as if the engine was running out of gas or the injectors aren't firing at all. This morning i pull out the spark plugs, 3 were drenched with gazoline the fourth one was dry. When i crank the engine, there are no sparks, I put a piece of tissue on top of each injector hole, the 3 drenched with gazoline leap out, however the 4th one stays shut. I tested the ground connection on ECU pins 14/55,30/55 and 48/55 i get zero ohm. Therefore, i think the issue is elsewhere.
I also tried to reset the PID with no success. The car will start when the G28 is disconnected, but it works fine when the G28 connected. However, the intermittent misfire problem still occurs at higher RPM. The coolant temperature sensor (G62) shows the wrong temp value that is -49c even after unplugging it. I also noticed that the oil gauge in the cockpit shows 2 bars while the actual pressure is 0.
I'm not sure what to do, as i think i've pretty much eliminated everything else. But i'm worried that I might have missed something. Let me know If you have any suggestions! TIA!
3. Fuel Pump
The fuel pump in the g28 is activated by a signal from the RPM sensor. The GM-style transmitter is identical to the G4 sender and works on the 80,100,200, UrS, and RS2 vehicles. You can easily find an extra in a wrecking shop or parts store. It is simple to test them by putting your DMM in resistance mode and take measurements between pins 1 (with the bump on the connector's end up) and 2 (2nd from the left on the black connector's side). They should be infinite Ohms.
4. ECU
The ECU of our 20vt turbo (3B AAN ABY) engines needs to be aware of the speed and position of the crankshaft to make decisions regarding timing of the fuel injector, etc. In order to do this it makes use of a Crank Position Sensor (G4) and an Engine Speed Sensor (G28). If you encounter a problem with either of these, the diagnostic scanner will show codes that could lead to an engine shutdown.
A failing G28 sensor could cause an inaccurate speed counter for your gearbox, a gearbox that shifts faster than normal, or a misfire while in the gear. If you have any of these issues it is likely your sensor is deteriorating and needs replacing. The good thing is that they are very cheap and easy to find particularly in the case of a Bosch model, which is what we have. Alternately, the GM version of this part is also a good option.
5. Tachometer
A malfunctioning engine sensor can cause a myriad of issues in your vehicle. It's a crucial component of the transmission of your audi key programming since it sends information to the ECU regarding how fast or slowly the engine is spinning. When this sensor fails, it will disrupt the performance of the transmission as well as the other car's components.
The G5 engine speed sensor is situated on the edge of the transmission above the flywheel ring gear and sends a signal to the ECU at pin T55/49, via an uncolored wire. The ECU then uses and processes the signal to control the flow of fuel, timig and boost as well as sends it on to the G5 tachometer in the instrument cluster. You can check the sensor for any failure by checking the continuity between it and the tachometer, between the ECU pin T55/49 and the instrument cluster connection on pin T6a/1 (trace [79]) and between T6a/1 and the instrument cluster pin T26a/12. It should show approximately 1000 ohms of resistance between these two points. This is a common component across the audi connect key 80, 100 200, UrS and RS2 range from 1985 MC until the 1997 UrS AAN and 1995 RS2 ADU, so the best ones might be availble in wrecking yards.
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